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Oct 12, 2014

Paris: A Mini Guide to Macarons

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I have to start off this macaron post by putting my mind at ease that y'all know what a macaron is. I'm sure you're thinking "well dummy, it's that thing in the picture right there." However, I've witnessed a lot of confusion between a macaron and a macaroon. Two completely differently things. Macarons are indeed the French almond confection in the picture right there. Macaroons with that sneaky extra O are tiny cakes that originated in Italy and found in the US full of coconut. 

Now let's get to business and talk about macarons in Paris. In which is there is plenty to discuss. I could have spent my whole three months trying all of the different macarons in the city, it is endless. They're offered in even bakery, pastry shop, and most chocolate shops as well. Some are good and some are exceptional. Here's a mini guide to my favorite macarons:

1. Laduree - the most famous macarons in Paris, with a variety of locations around the city. I blogged about tea time at Laduree here. If you want the typical Parisian macaron experience, stop by one of their outposts – but really I think there are better ones to try.

2. Maison Kayser - I think the fruit macarons offered here are the most rich + flavorful. The strawberry had a strong taste to it and the ones I tried were kept in a cooler, which made them more dense and not as light (a bonus in my opinion.)

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3. Pierre Marcolini (pictured above) - this is a chocolate shop I checked out after reading David Lebovitz's book and while the chocolate covered marshmallows were divine, the macarons were my favorites. The caramel salted butter one changed my life. One of my last days in Paris I went to the shop and bought a whole box of just caramel salted butter. Amazing. They also offer savory macarons and when I tried the basil + tomato, it was surprisingly tasty.

4. Angelina - famous for their hot chocolate, it's no surprise that their chocolate macaron was one of my favorites. They're a little more flaky than the others I tried, but the chocolate one is worth a trip in.

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5. Pierre Herme (pictured above) - these are the ones that I ate the most since a shop was in my neighborhood. They have really unique flavor combinations that are fun to try. I also found the ladies working in the different locations to be the friendliest, so if you're in need of some help choosing out which ones to try I suggest paying a visit to Pierre Hermes.

Here's a Google Map I made with locations for you to consult to do your own taste testing:

Bon appetite and be sure to bring back a box full of caramel salted butter for me!

Oct 12, 2014

Paris: Bon Appetite

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You will probably never go hungry in Paris but I have to admit I’ve come close. Many places are closed on Sunday, as are the grocery stores. Sometimes on Mondays as well. The hours can be quite puzzling. Places will open for lunch, either at 11 or 12 but close again around 2. The outdoor food market near my apartment closes at 1. This is a challenge for someone who admittedly doesn’t rolls out of bed late and has no desire for lunch until about 2 or later.

Restaurants will open again around 7 and sometimes kitchens don’t open until 7:30 or 8. However if you arrive at a cafe at 8 ready for dinner, you will likely be the only one eating. Dinner starts to happen around 9 or later. I can’t quite understand this, since the lunchtime rush happens at 12:30 and although there are post work drinks or coffee, nobody is eating dinner until late in the night. Try to get a table around 9 and c’est impossible. How are they not starving? I had to stop and think about what time I eat dinner at home. Usually around 7. Possibly drinks after work at 6 which then leads to a dinner at 7 or 7:30. Most of the shops close around 7 and I find the streets to be as empty as if it was 7 in the morning. Where are all the people? Where are they hiding? Is everyone off snacking in secret?

Another note on dining is that after three months in Paris, I was eating dinner at Au Passage and realized I was the only one who had placed my napkin on my lap. One is always set down before the plate yet everyone else had left it on the table, wiping their fingers on it delicately. My paper napkin was crumpled in a mess on my lap and I had somehow managed to make a deep tear in the side, mannerless barbarian that I am.

One thing I do appreciate about dining in Paris is that you can sit for as long as you like. Nobody will hustle you out and the check will not be given until you ask for it. L’addition s’il vous plait. As a New Yorker, I have it engrained in me to chow down and get out, in fear of selfishly holding the table too long and experiencing the wrath of a server who wants it turned. (I waited tables for four years at Bennigans, so I’m an a bit if an expert on having that check ready the moment people decline my offer of a brownie bottom pie.) Long meals full of multiple courses, coffee, and leaving the table for cigarette breaks are the standard in France. Take your time, stay awhile. This is how I have always loved experiencing a meal. I really enjoy sitting around for hours with friends, nowhere to go and plenty of cheese to eat.

The flip side however, is your departure time is at the mercy of your server. Multiple attempts at eye contact to ask for the check can be ignored. The system that I praise worked against me at a cafe when a man carrying 50 Shades of Grey continued to carry on a basically one sided conversation with me that I had zero interest in having. I couldn’t get the hell out of there fast enough. Literally. I also found myself and my friends ready to pounce and maul a table of four in a small restaurant who blatantly decided the table was theirs for the night, despite having being done eating or served anything for an hour. Give them the check already! Show them the door! That was one of the times I thought I might drop dead from starvation in the streets of Pigalle.

Dining in Paris has given me one of my favorite foodie (gah, that word) moments. The tasting menu at L’Arpege, arguably the best restaurant in the city and one of the top in the world, is quite a feast. The chef, Alain Passard, is reknown for cooking with vegetables and creating the unbeatable tweleve course meal of only vegetables. Until course number  seven. That was the chicken course. As the full dining room was enjoying their 6th course composed of tomatoes, suddenly there was the smell of meat in the air. Out came the chicken. A large golden, butter coated, beautiful chicken in a pot was being carried out of the kitchen. The chef then paraded it around the dining room, pausing to present it to each table of diners. I felt a bit like we were at a baby baptism, with the blessed child being presented to each of us as we admired its plump perfection and the mastery of the accurately timed cooking by its caretaker. Or perhaps a better analogy is a bris, as the next course we were served perfect slices of chicken. Carved and paired with a few cherry tomatoes at its side. It was delicious.

Oct 12, 2014

Paris: Le Bistro Paul Bert

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Le Bistro Paul Bert's steak frites is known as one of the best in Paris, so on a Saturday afternoon I headed over there to check it out for myself. The first thing I saw when I spotted the restaurant was an older woman sitting at one of the tables under the sidewalk with a very furry dining companion. She and her fluffy dog were enjoying lunch at Le Bistro Paul Bert.

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At lunch they offer a wonderful prix fixe menu for 36E that includes your choice of a entree, plat, and dessert (appetizer, main, dessert) and it's quite a deal. Especially since the signature steak frites is included on the menu. And as for the menu, it's in traditional bistro style written on a chalkboard and brought to your table. Sitting at the sidewalk tables, it gets propped up against cars parked on the street.

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I had the salmon tartare and famous creme caramel. I also ate every single bite of the steak. It was indeed delicious.

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The three rooms of the restaurant are filled with things hunted and collected at the flea markets. I think this would be a wonderful place late at night, with the tables filled and the wine flowing. I felt very French during my meal here. All I need next time is my own little fluffy pup as a dining companion.

Le Bistro Paul Bert
18 Rue Paul Bert

Oct 12, 2014

Paris: Tea Time at Laduree

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One of the best things about this summer has been the endless troup of friends that have come through. I've gotten to share lots of adventures with friends old + new. My girl Adrienne, who I met through Instagram, had a pit stop on Paris during her huge European getaway. We spent a very fun day together, starting at the famous Laduree for tea time.

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I'm sure you're familiar with the famous Laduree macarons, which can now be found around the world and all over Paris. Even though I've always had my little rainbow box to go, there are quite a few Laduree houses in Paris where you can eat. We met at the Rue Bonaparte location, because I'd read that it's less chaotic and we pretty much had the entire place all to ourselves. 

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I had also incorrectly thought that this Laduree location served sandwhiches for tea time but we were only given a book filled with desserts and of course a selection of macarons. And it is all very decadent.

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Six year old me would have absolutely loved tea time at Laduree. Thirty-two year old me wasn't complaining either.

Laduree
21 Rue Bonaparte

Oct 12, 2014

Paris: Clamato

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My favorite meal so far in Paris has been at Clamato. Many restaurants are closed for part or most of August while everyone goes on holiday, so this was one that I definitely wanted to hit while I could. I went on a Sunday (they're open on Sunday and all day, which is a rare thing!) and sat up at the bar. 

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The bartender was sweet + friendly but unfortunately he didn't speak much English. I got by with my minimal French and I'm always patting myself on the back when I find the correct words. I asked for recommendations and ordered three plates that he suggested. So, so happy that I did. 

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It's a seafood restaurant but surprisingly my favorite dish was the champignon de Paris. Mushrooms. Oui, a plate of mushrooms with roe + almonds. It was amazing. The menu changes with the seasons and the simple dishes are full of flavor and taste nothing incredibly fresh.

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After I had cleaned my plates, the bartender handed me the menu pointing without a pause at the tartelette au sirop d'erable (maple syrup tart.) I think he had my number. Put Clamato on the top of your Paris must-eat list. And don't forget the tart.

Clamato
80 Rue de Charonne

PS: Thank you for the comments on yesterday's post!

Oct 12, 2014

French Cooking Class at La Cuisine

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One of my favorite travel experiences was when Erin + I took a Thai cooking class in Chang Mai, so taking a French cooking class was at the top of my to-do list. Even though I don't cook. Ever. But what better place to learn than in Paris? After all, this is where Julia Child learned to cook.

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So in the spirit of Julia, I did some Googling and found classes that were in English at La Cuisine. They offer a variety of classes, including one where you can go to the market and shop for the food then cook it. I looked at crossiant or macaron classes too. But the one that appealed to me the most was the poultry class where you learned how to cook chicken. This is something I'd never do on my own (or attempt to watch YouTube videos to teach me, which is my solution for learning so much these days!) so I went for it. And so I set out to cook my very first chicken.

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The class was small with only three of us and a really wonderful teach, Amelie. She was warm, funny, and professional for the three hour class. We started with whole chickens and I learned how to debone that little guy. I had that line from Julie + Julia in my head the whole time – "Do you know how to bone a duck?" in that strong French accent. Like Julia, I decided to be fearless. Even when they gave me the big knives.

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In the end we made French onion soup, paupiettes (which are stuffed chicken parcels that we filled with mushrooms, herbs, and pine nuts – so delicious) and salad with vinaigrette. Amelie also showed us how to make a caramel sauce that we put on vanilla ice cream. It was very tasty, if I do say so myself.

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I'll admit that being in Paris and spending a lot of time eating my way through Paris has definitely inspired me to get into the kitchen more. I've tasted a lot of dishes that are simple yet incredible, things that I feel like I could try to replicate at home. Who knows – maybe like Julia, French cuisine has changed my life!

I highly recommend taking a class at La Cuisine when you are in Paris: Website | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

Oct 12, 2014

Buvette Paris

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Buvette is one of my happy places that needs to go to the top of your Wanderlist. It's actually a NYC import now in Paris, which might explain why I have such a fondness for it. The NYC version in the West Village is probably one of the most Instagrammed + beloved places and the Pigalle neighborhood is just as wonderful. There are many replicas between the two locations and someday I will have to do a post about the one Stateside so you can compare. Buvette Paris was also the cover story in June's issue of Bon Appetit. 

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When my friends from London were in town, I took them to Buvette on our last night for dinner. We promptly ate almost the entire (small) menu and it was so fantastic. The coq au vin… oh the coq au vin. It was to die for. I now dream about that dish on a daily basis. 

I decided to go back for lunch this week to snap some photos in daylight, which shines right into the restaurant. They serve food non-stop which is rare in Paris, usually kitchens close between lunch and dinner. But you can feast all day long at Buvette.

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Like the NYC location, the eggs (as well as a lot of other plates) are cooked directly at the bar. I was surprised to see that the scrambled eggs are actually made using the steamer on the expresso machine then whisked a bit by hand. This results in some incredibly fluffy eggs, which I had on toast with salmon, creme fraiche, and lots + lots of butter. Yum.

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I had a latte at the end of my lunch and thought long + hard about also adding a bowl of their chocolate mousse. We split one the other night and it's so thick that it's almost like eating a delicious chocolate cake. Next time, for sure. I know I'll be returning to Buvette in no time at all.

Buvette
28 rue Henri Monnier, Pigalle
Website | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram 

Oct 12, 2014

Old Major

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When I was in Denver, thanks to some awesome recommendations from friends, I was well fed. Very well fed. My first big dinner out was at Old Major. I think it goes down as one of the best meals I've ever had. Again, I sobbed inside because I didn't have my camera with me but tried to make due with the trusty iPhone.

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I sat up at the bar and asked the bartenders for some help with ordering. Luckily I'd made it in time for Happy Hour and with an even better stroke of luck, they have an incredible HH menu. I started with Bacon "Wings" which were big thick slabs of bacon dressed in wing sauce served with chunks of blue cheese. Swoon. Pair that with pork fat fries + THE BEST aioli I've ever had and I was so happy from the start.

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My main was perfect al dente cavatelli with smoked pork shank. It was so dreamy. Then I think I shocked the bartenders by requesting a dessert menu and topping it all off with a Maple Bacon Creme Caramel. When you see the words maple bacon, how can you not say yes?

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Oh goodness, I loved it all so much. Old Major is a fairly large restaurant with great patio seating and a large bar where you can sample the Happy Hour menu like I did. Or just order the whole menu. I really don't think you'll be disappointed!

Old Major
3316 Tejon St
Denver Co, 80211
Website | Facebook | Twitter

Oct 12, 2014

Ramen Burgers for Everyone!

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I love a good trend especially when it's something delicious that I get to eat. Ramen Burgers are the new "thing" in New York and San Francisco, so when I was at Smorgasburg in Brooklyn a few weeks ago we decided to try them out. Now I am an impatient Aries and never like to wait for anything, food not being any exception (yeah I'm talking about you, Cronut!) But I grabbed a Dough doughnut as an amuse bouch over then Amanda, Missy, James and I used 30 minutes to catch up on things. Before you knew it, warm Ramen Burgers were in our hands.

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I've eaten a lot of things that have not lived up to the hype, but this most certainly did. The noodles are soft, but still stick together to act like a bun. And whatever ths sauce they put on there… it sure is tasty. Umami goodness.

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We ate our burgers in the sunshine and watched the long line grow even longer. They say NYC is the city where you can get anything you want and now when you want a burger with ramen noodles as a bun (and who doesn't?!) here you have it. 

Ramen Burger by Keizo Shimamoto Website | Facebook